What materials do you need for a campervan conversion?

A typical DIY van conversion can involve a surprisingly large number of materials. Before buying anything, plan the build and decide which material is appropriate for each part of the van.

Step 1: Strip the van and inspect the shell

Before installing insulation or plywood, remove existing lining and flooring where necessary.

Inspect the exposed van body for:

• Rust or corrosion
• Water ingress
• Damaged paint
• Existing holes
• Factory fixing points
• Wiring
• Drainage points
• Areas requiring future access

Deal with corrosion and leaks before covering the structure. Once the walls and floor are insulated and lined, access becomes considerably more difficult.

Step 2: Plan the conversion before ordering materials

Draw a basic layout showing the bed, kitchen, seating, storage, electrical equipment, water system, windows, vents and major furniture.

This will help you decide where you need thin lining, stronger panels, furniture plywood, flooring plywood and fixing battens.

It also prevents a common DIY conversion mistake: buying a large quantity of one thickness of plywood and discovering that much of it is unnecessarily heavy.

Use the Plywood Etc Sheet Material Calculator

Measure the individual panels you expect to make and work out how efficiently they can be cut from your chosen sheet size.

Do not simply calculate the total square metre area and order that amount. The dimensions and shapes of the individual panels will affect how many sheets you actually need.

Step 3: Sound deadening is not the same as thermal insulation

It is useful to think about sound deadening and thermal insulation as separate jobs.

Sound deadening materials are primarily used to reduce vibration and resonance from metal panels. Thermal insulation is intended to reduce heat transfer.

Large metal panels can transmit road noise and vibration, so some converters use targeted sound deadening before adding thermal insulation.

You do not necessarily need to cover every square centimetre of the van with heavy sound deadening. Unnecessary weight is worth avoiding throughout a conversion.

Step 4: Choosing campervan insulation

There is no single insulation material that is automatically best for every van.

The right choice depends on:

• How the van will be used
• Whether it will be used throughout winter
• The available cavity depth
• How much interior space you can afford to lose
• Condensation management
• Weight
• The shape of the van structure

Rigid insulation boards can work well on flatter areas, while flexible materials can be useful around ribs, curves and irregular cavities.

PIR insulation

PIR can provide good thermal performance where space is limited and may be considered for suitable flat sections of walls, ceilings and floors.

XPS insulation

XPS is another rigid foam option that can be considered where a durable, moisture-resistant insulation board is appropriate.

Flexible insulation

Flexible insulation can help deal with awkward shapes and cavities where rigid boards are difficult to install accurately.

Specialist insulation advice

Step 5: Think about condensation and ventilation

A campervan is a small enclosed space. People breathing, cooking, drying clothing and sleeping inside all introduce moisture.

Insulation can help keep internal surfaces warmer, but it does not remove moisture from the air.

A good conversion therefore needs to consider:

• Insulation
• Air movement
• Ventilation
• Heating
• Cold bridges
• Moisture sources

Pay particular attention to metal ribs, door frames, window areas and other locations where internal surfaces can remain cold.

Step 6: What plywood should you use for campervan walls?

This is one of the areas where choosing a lighter sheet can make a real difference to the finished vehicle.

These are starting points rather than universal specifications. The required thickness depends on how the panel is supported, fixed and loaded.

Is 4mm plywood suitable for campervan lining?

Thin plywood can be very useful for campervan lining because the panels are relatively light and easy to handle.

4mm hardwood plywood can be considered for:

• Side wall lining
• Ceiling panels
• Door lining
• Decorative panels
• Lightly loaded interior panels

The key consideration is support. Thin plywood should not automatically be treated as a structural floor or heavily loaded furniture panel.

When should you use 6mm plywood?

6mm plywood provides more rigidity while remaining relatively light compared with thicker furniture panels.

It can be considered for:

• Door panels
• Partitions
• Wheel arch covers
• Shelving
• Furniture backs
• Stronger wall lining

Step 7: Birch plywood for campervan furniture

Birch plywood is a popular choice for campervan furniture because it provides a clean appearance and an attractive exposed plywood edge.

It can be particularly useful for:

• Kitchen units
• Cupboards
• Drawers
• Shelving
• Tables
• Storage boxes
• Bed furniture

However, do not automatically build every piece of furniture from the thickest Birch plywood available.

Consider the actual function of each component and whether a thinner or lighter panel would provide sufficient rigidity.

Step 8: Consider lightweight Poplar-core plywood

If reducing furniture weight is a major priority, a lightweight-core plywood can be an interesting alternative.

Plywood Etc's Stretek Poplar Faced Plywood combines a Birch-style face with a Poplar core and can be considered for internal joinery, shelving, cabinets, partitions and bespoke furniture.

Step 9: Wheel arches and curved areas

Wheel arches and curved sections can be some of the most awkward parts of a van to line.

This is where flexible plywood or carefully designed thin panels can be useful.

Cardboard templates are particularly helpful. Make the template first, transfer it to the plywood and test fit before making the final cut.

Step 10: Keep the ceiling lightweight

There is little benefit in unnecessarily heavy plywood overhead.

A suitable thin plywood lining can provide a clean finished surface while keeping weight down, provided it is adequately supported.

Remember to plan for:

• Roof vents
• Lighting
• Speakers
• Solar wiring
• Electrical cables
• Access points
• Roof insulation

Install or route services before permanently closing the ceiling wherever possible.

Step 11: Building the campervan floor

The floor needs a different approach from wall lining.

It has to cope with foot traffic, furniture loads, bed structures, storage and concentrated loads from people and equipment.

A typical floor build may include:

• Original van floor
• Sound deadening where required
• Thermal insulation
• Battens or another suitable support arrangement where required
• Plywood subfloor
• Finished floor covering

The plywood thickness should be selected according to the support underneath it rather than simply choosing the thickest board available.

Is marine plywood necessary for a campervan floor?

Not necessarily.

Marine plywood is a specialist product and should be selected where its particular specification is required. It does not automatically become the best plywood for every internal campervan application simply because the van may encounter damp conditions.

Where moisture exposure is higher, or where a specific marine plywood specification is required, it can be an appropriate choice.

What about anti-slip trailer flooring?

Phenolic-faced anti-slip plywood is extremely useful for demanding floors, trailers, walkways and working platforms.

However, a campervan may benefit more from a lighter plywood subfloor followed by a separate finished floor covering.

Plywood Etc's 12mm Buffalo Board has a Birch plywood core and phenolic anti-slip face. A full 2440mm × 1220mm sheet weighs approximately 26kg, which illustrates why weight should be considered before specifying heavy-duty flooring throughout a campervan.

Choosing the finished campervan floor

The plywood subfloor does not necessarily need to be the final surface.

Vinyl

Sheet vinyl is practical, relatively easy to clean and well suited to a living space where mud, water and spills are possible.

LVT

LVT can provide a more domestic appearance and is available in a wide range of finishes.

Rubber flooring

Rubber can be a practical option where durability, grip and easy cleaning are priorities.

Carpet

Carpet can provide a warmer and softer feel but may be less suitable where wet boots, mud and spills are common.

Do not over-specify the floor

Commercial vehicle flooring and campervan flooring have different priorities.

A working trailer may need a highly abrasion-resistant anti-slip surface. A campervan may be better served by a lighter plywood subfloor and a separate finished floor that provides the appearance and comfort required.

Step 12: Build lightweight furniture

Campervan furniture is one of the easiest areas in which a conversion can become unnecessarily heavy.

Instead of automatically using 18mm plywood everywhere, consider whether individual components can use different thicknesses.

The table is a guide rather than an engineering specification. Final thickness should reflect the design, support spacing and loads involved.

Step 13: Seal exposed plywood edges

Cut plywood edges can be more vulnerable to moisture than the finished face.

Pay particular attention to:

• Floor edges
• Cut-outs
• Sink areas
• Kitchen units
• Water storage areas
• Door thresholds

Use a suitable coating or sealant for the particular plywood and application.

Step 14: Do not forget access to important components

It is easy to create a beautiful interior and then discover that an electrical component, lock mechanism, water connection or service point is inaccessible.

Before permanently closing cavities, identify anything that may need future inspection or replacement.

How to keep your campervan conversion lightweight

The easiest way to control weight is to consider it from the beginning of the design.

Weight can quickly accumulate through:

• Plywood
• Timber framing
• Insulation
• Flooring
• Batteries
• Water
• Appliances
• Kitchen equipment
• Furniture
• Solar equipment
• Tools and equipment

Instead of asking what the strongest material available is, ask:

Campervan plywood buying guide

Specialist campervan conversion guides

You do not need to find every answer in one article. Specialist resources are useful for areas such as insulation, ventilation, electrics and other conversion systems, while this guide concentrates on choosing and planning the sheet materials used inside the van.

Campervan electrical and gas work

Electrical and gas systems deserve their own specialist treatment.

If your conversion includes 230V mains electricity, 12V systems, batteries, solar, gas appliances or fixed LPG installations, use appropriate specialist guidance and qualified installers where required.

This plywood and lining guide is not intended to replace professional advice for electrical, gas, structural or vehicle safety work.

Campervan conversion checklist

• Measure the van before ordering materials
• Plan wall, ceiling, floor and furniture panels separately
• Consider 4mm–6mm plywood for lightweight lining where suitable
• Consider 9mm–15mm plywood for many furniture applications
• Consider Birch plywood for visible furniture
• Consider lightweight-core plywood where reducing furniture weight is important
• Choose floor plywood according to support and loading
• Do not automatically specify marine plywood everywhere
• Consider handy-sized sheets to reduce handling and waste
• Seal vulnerable plywood edges
• Allow for cutting waste
• Plan access to electrical and plumbing components
• Plan ventilation before closing the interior
• Check the finished vehicle weight before travelling

Campervan plywood FAQs